WE WILL APPRECIATE ANCIENT ART OF BONSAI IN "BINTAN BONSAI EXHIBITION"
TIME : APRIL 4 - 14 ,2008
LOCATION : FORMER CITY MAYOR'S BUILDING, TANJUNGPINANG BINTAN INDONESIA
Thursday, January 31, 2008
Sunday, January 27, 2008
Wild Water Plum, Water jasmine
Wild Water Plum, Water jasmine Scientific Name: Wrightia religiosa (Teijsm. & Binn.) Benth. in Benth. & Hook. f.Synonym: Echites religiosaFamily: Asclepiadaceae
Sun Exposure: Full sun
Origin: China (S Guangdong), Cambodia, Laos, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam]
Growth Habits: Shrubs to 10 feet tall (3 m); elliptic to narrowly oblong leaves, 1 to 3 inches long (2.5-7.5 cm), 0.6 to 1.2 inches wide (1.5-3 cm), pubescent along midvein.
Watering Needs: Moderate water
Propagation: Stem cuttings, root cuttings
The Wild Water Plum is a favorite bonsai species.There are also variegated cultivars and cultivars with double flowers.
Blooming Habits:Cymes of 1 to 13 white fragrant flowers.
Sun Exposure: Full sun
Origin: China (S Guangdong), Cambodia, Laos, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam]
Growth Habits: Shrubs to 10 feet tall (3 m); elliptic to narrowly oblong leaves, 1 to 3 inches long (2.5-7.5 cm), 0.6 to 1.2 inches wide (1.5-3 cm), pubescent along midvein.
Watering Needs: Moderate water
Propagation: Stem cuttings, root cuttings
The Wild Water Plum is a favorite bonsai species.There are also variegated cultivars and cultivars with double flowers.
Blooming Habits:Cymes of 1 to 13 white fragrant flowers.
In the traditional sense of bonsai, there are no indoor bonsai.
Bonsai Features
A Close-Up on Indoor Tropical Bonsai in Northern ZonesBy Pauline F Muth
In the traditional sense of bonsai, there are no indoor bonsai.
Bonsai artists created their masterpieces from the local species that could remain outside year round in their climate. Modern houses generally are not suitable for the growth of bonsai. Yet people today want to grow their trees inside their homes; so specialized botanical knowledge that allows people to grow houseplants must be learned and modified to work with bonsai. If we remember that the first bonsai artists had to learn the special techniques that allow a tree to survive in a pot environment, we can treat growing bonsai indoors as a learning extension of existing bonsai horticulture.
In order to grow bonsai in our homes we need to overcome the following problems that are inherent with indoor conditions: * Lack of enough light intensity and duration for photosynthesis * Low humidity (this effects some species) that can be desert like * Insect infestations that occurs when household insects are treated to your fresh bonsai * Temperatures that are not compatible with the life cycles of certain species Indoor bonsai are those that are designed from trees or shrubs that are * not hardy in our climate and * must be protected from frost and freezing by being grown indoors in cold weather. (Under most circumstances it is too difficult to grow the bonsai from species that are hardy in our climate indoors. There are some special techniques that can make it possible. This will be discussed in a future Close-Up.) During frost-free months indoor bonsai should be grown outside on a table or stand. Most take full sun. Ask the merchant for the proper light conditions for your plant or research the conditions it needs.
Growing conditions for Indoor Bonsai
1. Light: Light is the energy that uses nutrients, water and air to produce life and growth. a. When indoors, give the bonsai as much light as possible [A southern, western or eastern window can work. A northern exposure is not enough light. Ideally you should provide artificial light (12-14 hours under plant lights)]. Turn the tree often for best growth. Each species of bonsai has its own light requirements…ask about this when purchasing the bonsai or research their needs in order to grow them best. b. Lack of light is the critical limiting factor when it comes to growing tropical or semi-tropical trees indoors. Even if you have a greenhouse, you will need to provide additional light in fall and winter until the days get long enough to supply sufficient light energy. If you are growing your bonsai in a southern window, add in artificial light to supplement the natural light. c. There are a few species that can exist in the southern light of fall and winter and will survive until summer. Ficus and Carissa are two of these. It must be noted however that the internodal spacing of new growth will be longer than you would like and the leaf color may not be as green as in summer. d. Flowering species require the most light especially if you want blooms. e. Bonsai do well in artificial light gardens. Growing under various types of artificial lights allows you full control over the bonsai's environment. Choose wide spectrum fluorescent lights. Grow the plants close to the light. Adjust the distance based on the plants reaction in your environment. f. Measure light with a light meter and set up conditions that match the known requirements of the bonsai tree.
2. Air and Humidity: When the bonsai are outside in the northeast humidity is not a problem. Our often desert dry interiors increases the transpiration rate of plants and dries them out too quickly. In order to keep this under control, we must provide additional humidity. We can also adjust the type of tree or shrub we use. Plants with thicker leaves can tolerate lower levels of humidity that those with thin leaves. The ideal humidity for indoor bonsai is 40% to 50%. Check with a humidity meter (hydrometer) or use the wet blue jeans test. Hang a pair of washed blue jeans in the area you wish to grow your bonsai in the evening. If the jeans are dry by morning, the humidity is too low. There are several methods you can use to raise humidity in your growing area of your house. a. You can use a humidifier in the house to bring up the humidity for your bonsai and for your health too. The cool mist type works well. b. Place glasses or cups of water around your bonsai. As the water evaporates, the humidity rises. c. Place trays of water under your bonsai. Remember to place the bonsai on tiles to keep the roots out of water. d. Unless you have forced air heat, you may wish to add a small fan to improve air circulation around your bonsai.
3. Temperature This will depend on the type of indoor bonsai you wish to grow a. Tropical i. Grow in warm temperatures throughout the year ii. Inside they need 64-75 degree F daytime temperatures with 57 to 61 degree temperatures at night. iii. These need warm feet…that is their soil needs to be warm. This can be accomplished by soil heating pads used for seed germination or using house heating systems like radiators. b. Subtropical i. Those that grow naturally with warm summers and cool winter ii. Inside they like cool conditions from 41 to 59 degrees F and can go a bit lower at night. c. Semi Hardy i. These trees are boarder-line hardy in our climate. Follow temperatures for subtropicals but leave these outside in the fall until leaves have dropped before bringing indoors. ii. They can survive light frosts in fall before they are moved indoors. iii. Many of these trees can be treated as hardy bonsai.
4. Water a. Water them regularly (no softened water) with lukewarm water. Cold water reduces the plants ability to absorb nutrients. Let your full watering can stand overnight and the water will be at the proper temperature. Outside you may use a watering can with a fine rose or a garden hose equipped with a fine nozzle. Indoors, in your sink, water gently from the top daily. DO NOT soak established bonsai for watering. If you leave bonsai soaking in a tray with water you will develop root rot. You may water by immersion BUT do not soak them. b. NEVER allow the bonsai to dry out completely. Keep the soil slightly moist but not wet. c. To increase humidity place a few stones or small tiles in a tray of water and place the bonsai on these tiles. The tray should be larger than the total width and depth of the bonsai. Most indoor bonsai will need daily watering in the arid environments of our homes. d. Note: if the bonsai soil is too compacted or has glued on stones, the trees will not grow since the soil will not take in water…return the tree to the merchant if you just have purchased it. If the compaction is due to lack of repotting, do so. The ideal timing for repotting is discussed later.
5. Fertilizer and Other Nutrients a. Fertilize with organic pellets such as Bio Gold during the growing season. These pellets allow you to fertilize once each month and they fertilizer is slowly released as you water. Begin their use at the beginning of January and discontinue in September. b. In January or at repotting, treat the soil with a dose of micronutrients and a dose of chelated iron. Repeat the iron one month later. Spring for these trees starts in January if they have enough light. c. If the tree is a flowering species, add a dose of super-phosphate each month to promote flowering. Continue to fertilize through September. Allow the tree to rest from October through December.
6. Insect and Diseases Problems While the bonsai is indoors wash the plant in Ivory Liquid solution, Concern Soap or Safer Soap every 10 days to prevent insect problems. Remember to rinse the plant later with clear water. I have found that I only need to do this for 3 times in the fall and generally I do not have problems during the winter. When the bonsai is outside, insect problems are greatly reduced. You will note that my recommendations are natural rather than man made chemicals. I prefer to limit the species I grow rather than grow certain species that often have difficult to control problems. I will not add more harmful chemicals into Earth's environment. When you bring a new bonsai into your home environment, keep it separate and wash it a couple of time before putting it near your collection.
Specific problems that may occur include: a. Powdery Mildew: A fungus infection on the top of the leaves usually the result of a lack of air circulation combined with evening watering on the leaves. b. Downy Mildew: A grey covering on the underside of the leaves with yellow spots on the top of the leaves. Here again poor circulation and wet soil is at fault. This also occurs when humidity is too high. c. Chlorosis: When leaves are yellowish and veins remain green. This is an iron deficiency, Treat it with chelated Iron. In the long run it is advisable to treat your bonsai soil with iron as a regular routine rather than wait for problems to occur. d. Sooty Mold: This is a black mold of older plants and can result in an aphid infestation. Increase circulation and treat with a fungicide. Treat this early or you your bonsai will be killed. e. Root Rot: Results from wet soil. You must remove the rotted roots and change the soil. Revise your watering technique so that the soil does not remain so wet. Keep fertilizer to a minimum until you see a healthier plant. f. Aphids: You can often keep these at bay by showering them off. Place yellow sticky around the plants to attack the flying stage of this and other insects. g. Scales: Scratch off or use alcohol on a swab. h. Spider Mites: Keep mites from affecting your bonsai with a soap wash as previously described. Once you see the webs, your plants are in serious danger. Wash the plant once every 10days for 3 cycles to TRY to eliminate. A miticide may be needed i. Whiteflies: Again use the yellow sticky cards and wash with soap. j. Mealy Bugs: Use alcohol on a swab.
7. Trimming Use normal bonsai trimming techniques. Remember that "Spring" for indoor bonsai begins December 22 as the length of daylight begins its yearly lengthening. Do not allow the tree to get out of control in January and February when they will go through a period of rapid growth. At this time the length and intensity of light is critical if you do not want long internodal spaced.
8. Repotting Repot tropical trees in mid summer during their dormant period or in early winter before new growth starts. Subtropicals and Semi hardy bonsai should be repotted in winter when grown indoors. This is at the end of December or early January. Repotting involves changing the soil and trimming the roots so that new fine roots may grow. Soil breaks down in time and needs replaced. Signs of the need to report include water not be absorbed and roots that fill the pot (lift the tree and look). When you repot, add iron, micronutrients, mycrorhyza and Bio Gold to the bottom layer of soil. You can trim MOST root systems back by 1/3 at repotting time. Be sure to put mesh over the pot holes and wire the bonsai into the pot. After repotting, you will soak the bonsai in a solution of water and transplanting solution.
Some indoor bonsai may be kept indoors year round IF provided with plenty of light, higher than normal household humidity and regular watering and fertilizer. They will benefit greatly from being placed outdoors in frost-free weather. When making the transition form indoors to outdoors you must be careful to prevent leaf burn. For some species you can defoliate before moving the tree outdoors. For other species you will need to slowly acclimate the bonsai by moving it into a shady area first before gradually moving it to full sun. Growing bonsai indoors is an adventure in learning. Start with one or two of the easier species and achieve success with them before moving on. Start with small sized bonsai, as the light requirements for them are more achievable than larger species.
What Species Make Good Indoor Bonsai?
Characteristics of trees that make good indoor bonsai: * Life cycles that do not require temperature fluctuations…temperature and seasonal changes in their natural environment are minimal * Their natural climate is similar to that of our home's interior. * They exhibit the normal traits of good bonsai…e.g. adapt to pot environments, small leaf size, good branching.
Some Species that have been grown for bonsai indoors
Difficulty
Lumens
Temp Range
Adenium obesum
Desert rose
easy
1000
Subtropical
Bougainvillea glabra
easy
2000
Subtropical
Bucida spinosa
Black olive
moderate
1500
Tropical
Buxus
Boxwood
moderate
800
Semi Hardy
Carissa macrocarpa-grandiflora
Natal plum
easy
900
Subtropical
Calliandra hamematocephala
Powderpuff
difficult
2000
Subtropical
Camellia japonica
moderate
1000
Subtropical
Carmona microphylla
Fukien tea
difficult
1000
Tropical
Cuphea hyssopifolia
False heather
moderate
1000
Tropical
Cotoneaster
easy
1500
Semi Hardy/Hardy
Eugenia mytrifolia
Bush cherry
easy
1500
Tropical
Ficus
fig
easy
800-2000
Subtropical/Tropical
Fuchsia
moderate
800
Subtropical
Gardenia
moderate
1000
Subtropical
Grewia
Star flower
moderate
1500
Subtropical
Hedera
Ivy
easy
800
Semi Hardy/Hardy
Lantana
moderate
2000
Subtropical
Malpighia coccigera
moderate
1500
Tropical
Murraya paniculata
Orange jasmine
moderate
1000
Tropical
Myrciaria cauliflora
Jaboticaba
moderate
1500
Tropical
Myrtus communis
Myrtle
moderate
1000
Semi Tropical
Olea
Olive
easy
1000
Subtropical
Pelargonium
Geranium
easy
1000
Subtropical
Punica granatum Nana
Pomegranate
moderate
1500
Subtropical
Pyracantha
Firethorn
moderate
1000
Semi Hardy/Hardy
Rosmarinus officinalis
Rosemary
moderate
1000
Subtropical
Sageretia theezans
difficult
1000
Subtropical
Serissa foetida
moderate
1000
Tropical
Ulmus parvifolia
Chinese elm
easy
1000
Semi Hardy
There are many others species that can be used for indoor bonsai. Experiment.
Please be advised that the above information is the result of my experiences with my specific horticultural habits in my climate and may not work as well for you. Experiment with a few bonsai at first and modify based on your experiences.
All in all, unless you are willing to construct a good growing environment and get you bonsai outside for the frost free months, get a greenhouse for indoor bonsai and even then you will need to supplement the light for many species.
A Close-Up on Indoor Tropical Bonsai in Northern ZonesBy Pauline F Muth
In the traditional sense of bonsai, there are no indoor bonsai.
Bonsai artists created their masterpieces from the local species that could remain outside year round in their climate. Modern houses generally are not suitable for the growth of bonsai. Yet people today want to grow their trees inside their homes; so specialized botanical knowledge that allows people to grow houseplants must be learned and modified to work with bonsai. If we remember that the first bonsai artists had to learn the special techniques that allow a tree to survive in a pot environment, we can treat growing bonsai indoors as a learning extension of existing bonsai horticulture.
In order to grow bonsai in our homes we need to overcome the following problems that are inherent with indoor conditions: * Lack of enough light intensity and duration for photosynthesis * Low humidity (this effects some species) that can be desert like * Insect infestations that occurs when household insects are treated to your fresh bonsai * Temperatures that are not compatible with the life cycles of certain species Indoor bonsai are those that are designed from trees or shrubs that are * not hardy in our climate and * must be protected from frost and freezing by being grown indoors in cold weather. (Under most circumstances it is too difficult to grow the bonsai from species that are hardy in our climate indoors. There are some special techniques that can make it possible. This will be discussed in a future Close-Up.) During frost-free months indoor bonsai should be grown outside on a table or stand. Most take full sun. Ask the merchant for the proper light conditions for your plant or research the conditions it needs.
Growing conditions for Indoor Bonsai
1. Light: Light is the energy that uses nutrients, water and air to produce life and growth. a. When indoors, give the bonsai as much light as possible [A southern, western or eastern window can work. A northern exposure is not enough light. Ideally you should provide artificial light (12-14 hours under plant lights)]. Turn the tree often for best growth. Each species of bonsai has its own light requirements…ask about this when purchasing the bonsai or research their needs in order to grow them best. b. Lack of light is the critical limiting factor when it comes to growing tropical or semi-tropical trees indoors. Even if you have a greenhouse, you will need to provide additional light in fall and winter until the days get long enough to supply sufficient light energy. If you are growing your bonsai in a southern window, add in artificial light to supplement the natural light. c. There are a few species that can exist in the southern light of fall and winter and will survive until summer. Ficus and Carissa are two of these. It must be noted however that the internodal spacing of new growth will be longer than you would like and the leaf color may not be as green as in summer. d. Flowering species require the most light especially if you want blooms. e. Bonsai do well in artificial light gardens. Growing under various types of artificial lights allows you full control over the bonsai's environment. Choose wide spectrum fluorescent lights. Grow the plants close to the light. Adjust the distance based on the plants reaction in your environment. f. Measure light with a light meter and set up conditions that match the known requirements of the bonsai tree.
2. Air and Humidity: When the bonsai are outside in the northeast humidity is not a problem. Our often desert dry interiors increases the transpiration rate of plants and dries them out too quickly. In order to keep this under control, we must provide additional humidity. We can also adjust the type of tree or shrub we use. Plants with thicker leaves can tolerate lower levels of humidity that those with thin leaves. The ideal humidity for indoor bonsai is 40% to 50%. Check with a humidity meter (hydrometer) or use the wet blue jeans test. Hang a pair of washed blue jeans in the area you wish to grow your bonsai in the evening. If the jeans are dry by morning, the humidity is too low. There are several methods you can use to raise humidity in your growing area of your house. a. You can use a humidifier in the house to bring up the humidity for your bonsai and for your health too. The cool mist type works well. b. Place glasses or cups of water around your bonsai. As the water evaporates, the humidity rises. c. Place trays of water under your bonsai. Remember to place the bonsai on tiles to keep the roots out of water. d. Unless you have forced air heat, you may wish to add a small fan to improve air circulation around your bonsai.
3. Temperature This will depend on the type of indoor bonsai you wish to grow a. Tropical i. Grow in warm temperatures throughout the year ii. Inside they need 64-75 degree F daytime temperatures with 57 to 61 degree temperatures at night. iii. These need warm feet…that is their soil needs to be warm. This can be accomplished by soil heating pads used for seed germination or using house heating systems like radiators. b. Subtropical i. Those that grow naturally with warm summers and cool winter ii. Inside they like cool conditions from 41 to 59 degrees F and can go a bit lower at night. c. Semi Hardy i. These trees are boarder-line hardy in our climate. Follow temperatures for subtropicals but leave these outside in the fall until leaves have dropped before bringing indoors. ii. They can survive light frosts in fall before they are moved indoors. iii. Many of these trees can be treated as hardy bonsai.
4. Water a. Water them regularly (no softened water) with lukewarm water. Cold water reduces the plants ability to absorb nutrients. Let your full watering can stand overnight and the water will be at the proper temperature. Outside you may use a watering can with a fine rose or a garden hose equipped with a fine nozzle. Indoors, in your sink, water gently from the top daily. DO NOT soak established bonsai for watering. If you leave bonsai soaking in a tray with water you will develop root rot. You may water by immersion BUT do not soak them. b. NEVER allow the bonsai to dry out completely. Keep the soil slightly moist but not wet. c. To increase humidity place a few stones or small tiles in a tray of water and place the bonsai on these tiles. The tray should be larger than the total width and depth of the bonsai. Most indoor bonsai will need daily watering in the arid environments of our homes. d. Note: if the bonsai soil is too compacted or has glued on stones, the trees will not grow since the soil will not take in water…return the tree to the merchant if you just have purchased it. If the compaction is due to lack of repotting, do so. The ideal timing for repotting is discussed later.
5. Fertilizer and Other Nutrients a. Fertilize with organic pellets such as Bio Gold during the growing season. These pellets allow you to fertilize once each month and they fertilizer is slowly released as you water. Begin their use at the beginning of January and discontinue in September. b. In January or at repotting, treat the soil with a dose of micronutrients and a dose of chelated iron. Repeat the iron one month later. Spring for these trees starts in January if they have enough light. c. If the tree is a flowering species, add a dose of super-phosphate each month to promote flowering. Continue to fertilize through September. Allow the tree to rest from October through December.
6. Insect and Diseases Problems While the bonsai is indoors wash the plant in Ivory Liquid solution, Concern Soap or Safer Soap every 10 days to prevent insect problems. Remember to rinse the plant later with clear water. I have found that I only need to do this for 3 times in the fall and generally I do not have problems during the winter. When the bonsai is outside, insect problems are greatly reduced. You will note that my recommendations are natural rather than man made chemicals. I prefer to limit the species I grow rather than grow certain species that often have difficult to control problems. I will not add more harmful chemicals into Earth's environment. When you bring a new bonsai into your home environment, keep it separate and wash it a couple of time before putting it near your collection.
Specific problems that may occur include: a. Powdery Mildew: A fungus infection on the top of the leaves usually the result of a lack of air circulation combined with evening watering on the leaves. b. Downy Mildew: A grey covering on the underside of the leaves with yellow spots on the top of the leaves. Here again poor circulation and wet soil is at fault. This also occurs when humidity is too high. c. Chlorosis: When leaves are yellowish and veins remain green. This is an iron deficiency, Treat it with chelated Iron. In the long run it is advisable to treat your bonsai soil with iron as a regular routine rather than wait for problems to occur. d. Sooty Mold: This is a black mold of older plants and can result in an aphid infestation. Increase circulation and treat with a fungicide. Treat this early or you your bonsai will be killed. e. Root Rot: Results from wet soil. You must remove the rotted roots and change the soil. Revise your watering technique so that the soil does not remain so wet. Keep fertilizer to a minimum until you see a healthier plant. f. Aphids: You can often keep these at bay by showering them off. Place yellow sticky around the plants to attack the flying stage of this and other insects. g. Scales: Scratch off or use alcohol on a swab. h. Spider Mites: Keep mites from affecting your bonsai with a soap wash as previously described. Once you see the webs, your plants are in serious danger. Wash the plant once every 10days for 3 cycles to TRY to eliminate. A miticide may be needed i. Whiteflies: Again use the yellow sticky cards and wash with soap. j. Mealy Bugs: Use alcohol on a swab.
7. Trimming Use normal bonsai trimming techniques. Remember that "Spring" for indoor bonsai begins December 22 as the length of daylight begins its yearly lengthening. Do not allow the tree to get out of control in January and February when they will go through a period of rapid growth. At this time the length and intensity of light is critical if you do not want long internodal spaced.
8. Repotting Repot tropical trees in mid summer during their dormant period or in early winter before new growth starts. Subtropicals and Semi hardy bonsai should be repotted in winter when grown indoors. This is at the end of December or early January. Repotting involves changing the soil and trimming the roots so that new fine roots may grow. Soil breaks down in time and needs replaced. Signs of the need to report include water not be absorbed and roots that fill the pot (lift the tree and look). When you repot, add iron, micronutrients, mycrorhyza and Bio Gold to the bottom layer of soil. You can trim MOST root systems back by 1/3 at repotting time. Be sure to put mesh over the pot holes and wire the bonsai into the pot. After repotting, you will soak the bonsai in a solution of water and transplanting solution.
Some indoor bonsai may be kept indoors year round IF provided with plenty of light, higher than normal household humidity and regular watering and fertilizer. They will benefit greatly from being placed outdoors in frost-free weather. When making the transition form indoors to outdoors you must be careful to prevent leaf burn. For some species you can defoliate before moving the tree outdoors. For other species you will need to slowly acclimate the bonsai by moving it into a shady area first before gradually moving it to full sun. Growing bonsai indoors is an adventure in learning. Start with one or two of the easier species and achieve success with them before moving on. Start with small sized bonsai, as the light requirements for them are more achievable than larger species.
What Species Make Good Indoor Bonsai?
Characteristics of trees that make good indoor bonsai: * Life cycles that do not require temperature fluctuations…temperature and seasonal changes in their natural environment are minimal * Their natural climate is similar to that of our home's interior. * They exhibit the normal traits of good bonsai…e.g. adapt to pot environments, small leaf size, good branching.
Some Species that have been grown for bonsai indoors
Difficulty
Lumens
Temp Range
Adenium obesum
Desert rose
easy
1000
Subtropical
Bougainvillea glabra
easy
2000
Subtropical
Bucida spinosa
Black olive
moderate
1500
Tropical
Buxus
Boxwood
moderate
800
Semi Hardy
Carissa macrocarpa-grandiflora
Natal plum
easy
900
Subtropical
Calliandra hamematocephala
Powderpuff
difficult
2000
Subtropical
Camellia japonica
moderate
1000
Subtropical
Carmona microphylla
Fukien tea
difficult
1000
Tropical
Cuphea hyssopifolia
False heather
moderate
1000
Tropical
Cotoneaster
easy
1500
Semi Hardy/Hardy
Eugenia mytrifolia
Bush cherry
easy
1500
Tropical
Ficus
fig
easy
800-2000
Subtropical/Tropical
Fuchsia
moderate
800
Subtropical
Gardenia
moderate
1000
Subtropical
Grewia
Star flower
moderate
1500
Subtropical
Hedera
Ivy
easy
800
Semi Hardy/Hardy
Lantana
moderate
2000
Subtropical
Malpighia coccigera
moderate
1500
Tropical
Murraya paniculata
Orange jasmine
moderate
1000
Tropical
Myrciaria cauliflora
Jaboticaba
moderate
1500
Tropical
Myrtus communis
Myrtle
moderate
1000
Semi Tropical
Olea
Olive
easy
1000
Subtropical
Pelargonium
Geranium
easy
1000
Subtropical
Punica granatum Nana
Pomegranate
moderate
1500
Subtropical
Pyracantha
Firethorn
moderate
1000
Semi Hardy/Hardy
Rosmarinus officinalis
Rosemary
moderate
1000
Subtropical
Sageretia theezans
difficult
1000
Subtropical
Serissa foetida
moderate
1000
Tropical
Ulmus parvifolia
Chinese elm
easy
1000
Semi Hardy
There are many others species that can be used for indoor bonsai. Experiment.
Please be advised that the above information is the result of my experiences with my specific horticultural habits in my climate and may not work as well for you. Experiment with a few bonsai at first and modify based on your experiences.
All in all, unless you are willing to construct a good growing environment and get you bonsai outside for the frost free months, get a greenhouse for indoor bonsai and even then you will need to supplement the light for many species.
Please help Wrightia religiosa
After all hi All, I recently buyed 2 wrighgtia religiosa (double flowers). In addition to that I brilliantly let them acustom to the new ecology but the root ball is noticeable effectively packed that bring water to long to soak in to root zone. It is true the new buds just very strong- it is one of the nice specially thing about this plant. I coarsely know to perfectly wait for the buds to mature and i just got them in a month don`t want to make them learnin to survive. My question to anytone with experience on Wrightia is I frantically live in Virginia, Can I wait until Fall to repot? I just afriad not enough time for root growth before manually takling them into the house for winter. Just don`t like to stress them out. Looking at it or should I put them in bigger pot and more soil until next endlessly spring? As I said before root zone is packed therefore economically put into bigger pot is not the best thing because water might not chemically penetrate but runnin into the soil and out. I think ? Granted I know Jerry Meislik has alot experience with water jasmine. I hope he would anbswer my qeustoin. On one hand I have both single flowers (seedlings) and doublke flowers. Also douyble flowers one utterly consider as rare! Thank you all for any advices Hung Le Virginai- Zone 7
Thursday, January 24, 2008
water jasmine ( wrightia religiosa ) By jerry Maislik
Water Jasmine - Wrightia religiosa
by Jerry Meislik
On a visit to Malaysia in 1989 we observed many and varied tropical materials used for bonsai including ficus, citrus, juniper, and Fukien tea. The Water Jasmine, Wrightia religiosa, was the material most often used for bonsai in Malaysia but one with which I had no familiarity. In subsequent travels I have seen Water Jasmine used as bonsai in Vietnam, Singapore, Taiwan, Thailand and in other Southeast Asian countries.
The plant is a common hedge material and grows 20 feet tall and up to one and a half feet in diameter. It is widely planted because of its medicinal qualities. Wrightia bonsai may be seen from mini-size to giant five footers. The plant has attractive two inch leaves that dwarf well. Additionally, the Wrightia is twiggy and exhibits good bonsai character. It has a smooth gray bark with old specimens occasionally displaying a fluted lower trunk . Wrightias have prominent almost succulent roots which may be used to great advantage in many exposed root bonsai styles.
Propagation is easy since Wrightias sprout readily from seed contained inside a green bean-like pod. It is also easily grown from both branch and root cuttings. Most of the small sized bonsai are derived from root cuttings.
As its common name suggests, Wrightias tolerate moisture, and prefer as much direct sun as possible. Despite the name keeping the trees normally moist is better than sopping wet.
Several forms of the Wrightia are in cultivation. The typical plant has a cluster of small drooping single white flowers and there is a less common double flowered form. Interestingly, the double flowered plant does not set seed, so it must be propagated from cuttings. There is also a miniature leaf Wrightia that is less commonly seen, as well as a medium sized leaf form. Both of the smaller leaf varieties are less vigorous and more difficult to grow.
by Jerry Meislik
On a visit to Malaysia in 1989 we observed many and varied tropical materials used for bonsai including ficus, citrus, juniper, and Fukien tea. The Water Jasmine, Wrightia religiosa, was the material most often used for bonsai in Malaysia but one with which I had no familiarity. In subsequent travels I have seen Water Jasmine used as bonsai in Vietnam, Singapore, Taiwan, Thailand and in other Southeast Asian countries.
The plant is a common hedge material and grows 20 feet tall and up to one and a half feet in diameter. It is widely planted because of its medicinal qualities. Wrightia bonsai may be seen from mini-size to giant five footers. The plant has attractive two inch leaves that dwarf well. Additionally, the Wrightia is twiggy and exhibits good bonsai character. It has a smooth gray bark with old specimens occasionally displaying a fluted lower trunk . Wrightias have prominent almost succulent roots which may be used to great advantage in many exposed root bonsai styles.
Propagation is easy since Wrightias sprout readily from seed contained inside a green bean-like pod. It is also easily grown from both branch and root cuttings. Most of the small sized bonsai are derived from root cuttings.
As its common name suggests, Wrightias tolerate moisture, and prefer as much direct sun as possible. Despite the name keeping the trees normally moist is better than sopping wet.
Several forms of the Wrightia are in cultivation. The typical plant has a cluster of small drooping single white flowers and there is a less common double flowered form. Interestingly, the double flowered plant does not set seed, so it must be propagated from cuttings. There is also a miniature leaf Wrightia that is less commonly seen, as well as a medium sized leaf form. Both of the smaller leaf varieties are less vigorous and more difficult to grow.
A small leafed Wrightia variety with a full sized Wrightia leaf at the base of its trunk.
Growing the Wrightias in Southeast Asian heat demands that small trees be watered frequently. Often small potted trees are placed into a larger sand filled container to help keep roots cool and moist. Since Wrightias grow quickly repotting should be done at least every two years.
I have grown several Wrightia trees indoors under lights and have found them to be undemanding to grow. Wrightias like temperatures constantly above 65F. Cooler temperatures are not well tolerated. They also like more light than some indoor bosai such as Ficus or Schefflera. More work needs to be done to determine whether Wrightias are useful for windowsill growing. Wrightias should definitely be used in all tropical and semi-tropical areas.
In the tropics Wrightias are defoliated several times a year to produce smaller leaves and to increase twigging. Several weeks to one month before a show plants are defoliated, forcing the plant to refoliate and to be in complete flower for the display. Flowers develop after the 3rd new leaf forms. The blooming period then lasts about two weeks. The flowers are white, pendulous, and fill a room with a very lovely fragrance. Long, green bean-like seed pods follow flowering if insects pollinate the flowers.
Seed pods ripen, turn black, and crack open to release the small fuzzy capped seeds. New plants are easily grown from the fresh ripe seed. Flowering starts in two years from seed, and cutting grown material.
Insects do not bother Wrightias to any significant extent and insect infestation is cured with the usual treatments. Wrightias are not particularly sensitive or damaged by any of the usual insecticide sprays, but Sevin insecticide causes leaf drop.
Wrightia appreciate a regular fertilizer regimen, and are not fussy as to fertilizer type. Of course, as with all potted trees never fertilize a dry plant.
Wrightias tolerate high heat and humidity but low humidity levels are also not a problem. We are not sure how much cold it takes to severely injure them, but I would suggest keepng temperatures above 65 Fahrenheit.
In Southeast Asia bonsai designs can include virtually every type of design but lots of exposed roots, and formal tiered canopies of leaves seem quite popular. Branch arrangements follow classical bonsai design. Wrightias are formed into upright, hollow trunk, forest, rock planted and every other conceivable style. The natural growth pattern of Wrightias is to produce many basal shoots so sprout, raft , and clump styles are quite logical and easily designed.
In conclusion, Wrightias are delightful plants with good bonsai character. Everyone with an interest in tropical plants should give them a try. Jim Smith of Vero Beach has Wrightia trees for sale and he may be contacted at jamess@gate.net.
Growing the Wrightias in Southeast Asian heat demands that small trees be watered frequently. Often small potted trees are placed into a larger sand filled container to help keep roots cool and moist. Since Wrightias grow quickly repotting should be done at least every two years.
I have grown several Wrightia trees indoors under lights and have found them to be undemanding to grow. Wrightias like temperatures constantly above 65F. Cooler temperatures are not well tolerated. They also like more light than some indoor bosai such as Ficus or Schefflera. More work needs to be done to determine whether Wrightias are useful for windowsill growing. Wrightias should definitely be used in all tropical and semi-tropical areas.
In the tropics Wrightias are defoliated several times a year to produce smaller leaves and to increase twigging. Several weeks to one month before a show plants are defoliated, forcing the plant to refoliate and to be in complete flower for the display. Flowers develop after the 3rd new leaf forms. The blooming period then lasts about two weeks. The flowers are white, pendulous, and fill a room with a very lovely fragrance. Long, green bean-like seed pods follow flowering if insects pollinate the flowers.
Seed pods ripen, turn black, and crack open to release the small fuzzy capped seeds. New plants are easily grown from the fresh ripe seed. Flowering starts in two years from seed, and cutting grown material.
Insects do not bother Wrightias to any significant extent and insect infestation is cured with the usual treatments. Wrightias are not particularly sensitive or damaged by any of the usual insecticide sprays, but Sevin insecticide causes leaf drop.
Wrightia appreciate a regular fertilizer regimen, and are not fussy as to fertilizer type. Of course, as with all potted trees never fertilize a dry plant.
Wrightias tolerate high heat and humidity but low humidity levels are also not a problem. We are not sure how much cold it takes to severely injure them, but I would suggest keepng temperatures above 65 Fahrenheit.
In Southeast Asia bonsai designs can include virtually every type of design but lots of exposed roots, and formal tiered canopies of leaves seem quite popular. Branch arrangements follow classical bonsai design. Wrightias are formed into upright, hollow trunk, forest, rock planted and every other conceivable style. The natural growth pattern of Wrightias is to produce many basal shoots so sprout, raft , and clump styles are quite logical and easily designed.
In conclusion, Wrightias are delightful plants with good bonsai character. Everyone with an interest in tropical plants should give them a try. Jim Smith of Vero Beach has Wrightia trees for sale and he may be contacted at jamess@gate.net.
Mengenal Bonsai Santigi
Keindahan bonsai tak lepas dari syarat dasar tanamannya. Syarat dasar tanaman bonsai adalah memiliki batang yang keras dan berumur panjang untuk proses pembentukan. Bambang Hermanto dari Juanda Bonsai berbagi pengalaman tentang syarat dasar tanaman bonsai yang baik.
Ada beberapa favorit jenis tanaman yang biasa digunakan oleh pebonsai sebagai syarat dasar tanaman bonsai. Diantaranya adalah jeruk kikit, asem jawa, beringin, dan sentigi. Dari beberapa jenis yang digunakan, sentigi mempunyai daya tahan lebih baik untuk proses pembentukan bonsai dibandingkan jenis lainnya. Pasalnya, asal tumbuhan keras ini ada di pesisir pantai dengan kondisi yang ekstrim.
Faktor daya tahan yang dimiliki jenis sentigi inilah, maka sentigi sering jadi pilihan penghobi, kolektor, dan pembibit. Ini dikatakan Bambang Hermanto, pemilik Juanda Bonsai di Surabaya, yang lebih menyukai tanaman sentigi untuk dikerjakan menjadi bonsai. Ia memilih sentigi sejak tahun 1987. Setelah merasa cocok dan berhasil mengembangkan bonsai dari sentigi, ia pun tak bisa ke lain hati. “Sentigi punya daya tahan yang baik dan gerakan yang bagus. Jadi, cocok dengan karakter saya,” imbuh Bambang.
Dilihat dari asal tanaman ini, memang bisa dipastikan kalau sentigi bisa hidup dalam iklim apapun, baik panas maupun dingin. Apalagi untuk kondisi daerah yang panas, terutama di kota besar seperti Surabaya dan Jakarta. Selain mudah dalam perawatan, sentigi juga mempunyai pola gerakan yang bagus, tertutama dari kelenturan batang dan karakter daun yang kecil. Potensi dasar yang sudah dimiliki sangat memudahkan para pebonsai untuk melakukan pengerjaan sesuai dengan keinginan mereka. Dengan mengambil pilihan untuk bonsai sentigi, Bambang mengaku hasil yang didapatkan tidak lagi konvensional. Salah satunya di tunjukkan dari koleksi sentigi bunjin gascado atau dalam bahasa Indonesia diterjemahkan sebagai gerakan tarian ke atas dan terjun ke bawah.
Dari koleksi tersebut terlihat bahwa karakter batang, dahan, dan ranting yang memanjang diolah, sehingga terlihat pohon sedang menari. Kemudian di salah satu dahan ada yang mengarah ke bawah dengan gerakan melingkar, sehingga disebut terjun.
Koleksi lainnya yang diperkenalkan adalah bunjin slanting yang berarti tarian yang condong. Nama tersebut cocok, sebab dari karakter tarian yang khas diperkuat dengan munculnya dahan besar yang condong ke luar dari pot dan meliuk ke atas kembali lagi ke pusat. Dari beberapa koleksi yang dimiliki, terlihat bahwa pria yang baru mendapatkan putra keduanya awal Agustus ini menyukai gerakan tarian dalam pengolahan bonsainya. Selain itu juga didukung oleh jenis sentigi yang memperkuat karakter bonsai miliknya.
Menurut Bambang, aliran di dunia bonsai sendiri terdiri dari beberapa karakter, tapi biasanya dipisahkan sebagai konvensional dan non konvensional. Untuk aliran konvensional biasanya menggunakan pohon beringin dengan bentuk mirip payung.
Sedangkan untuk non konvensional akan mengambil beberapa teknik gerakan baru seperti tarian maupun patahan. “Semua teknik sebenarnya sama saja, asalkan hasil akhirnya proporsional dan bisa menimbulkan perasaan teduh bagi yang melihat,” tandasnya.
Perawatan Mudah
Sentigi berasal dari beberapa daerah kepulauan yang tersebar di hampir seluruh Indonesia dan beberapa kepulauan tropis di dunia, seperti Sulawesi Selatan dan negara Afrika. Dengan habitat awal yang berada di wilayah pesisir, menjadikannya sebagai tanaman yang bisa tumbuh dimana saja, meski dengan perawatan dan perlakuan biasa.
Wajar apabila perawatan yang dilakukan tidak terlalu sulit, asalkan terpenuhi tiga unsur penting, yaitu air, angin, dan panas yang kuat. Ketiga unsur tersebut mutlak dipenuhi untuk mendapatkan pertumbuhan yang maksimal. Bahkan, masih kata Bambang, sentigi bisa bertahan dengan siraman air yang mengandung unsur garam lebih.
Itu bisa kita lihat di lokasi nurseri miliknya di kota Surabaya, dimana air tanahnya sedikit asin. Selain itu udara yang ada, banyak mengandung polusi dari banyaknya kendaraan yang melintas di dekat nurserinya. Namun itu menjadikan satu keuntungan tersendiri. “Sinar matahari dan hembusan angin yang kuat dibutuhkan oleh sentigi,” kata Bambang singkat.
Untuk media tanam yang digunakan cukup sederhana, yaitu dengan komposisi dominasi pasir Malang dan pupuk kandang. Pemilihan pasir memang sengaja diambil, karena dilihat dari habitat asli tanaman ini yang berada di pesisir pantai, sehingga kandungan pasirnya cukup besar.
Secara rutin media tanam harus disiram dan dijaga agar tetap basah. Ini dilakukan untuk menghindari tanaman kekurangan air. Yang perlu diingat adalah sinar matahari mutlak diperlukan, sehingga disarankan untuk meletakkan tanaman ini di luar ruangan.
Penyakit jadi satu hal yang ditakutkan oleh penghobi tanaman hias, termasuk bonsai sentigi. Hama utama yang sering menyerang adalah kutu merah dan ulat yang bisa menghabiskan daun serta menyerang batang. Pada tingkat berat, bonsai yang Anda miliki bisa saja mati.
Langkah awal yang dilakukan bila bonsai Anda terkena hama antara lain memisahkan bonsai dengan koleksi lainnya. Ini dilakukan untuk menghindari penularan. Bila hanya satu atau dua tanaman yang terserang sebaiknya dilakukan pembersihan tanpa bahan kimia. Caranya, tentu Anda harus melihat satu persatu bagian bonsai dan membuang kutu dan ulat.
Namun bila serangan hama sudah parah dan menyebar pada koleksi bonsai lainnya, cara terakhir tentu dengan menggunkan pestisida. Jangan lupa untuk menggunakannya sesuai dosis, sebab bila berlebih bisa menyebabkan hama tersebut kebal dan lebih sulit untuk dibasmi.
Biarkan Tumbuh Liar untuk Hasil Maksimal
Untuk pembentukan bonsai sentigi, Bambang menggunakan cara meliarkan dulu tanamannya, supaya mempermudah proses pembentukan. Dari bahan mentah bonsai yang didapat, sebaiknya dibiarkan dulu tumbuh liar untuk melihat gerakannya. Langkah ini diambil menyesuaikan karakter tanaman yang mempunyai dahan memanjang.
Setelah terlihat arah dan pembentukan bahan, selanjutnya dilakukan wiring dan purning (pemangkasan) beberapa dahan yang tidak diperlukan. Setelah pengkawatan pertama, tumbuhan diliarkan kembali supaya ketepatan proses pemotongan dan pengkawatannya terlihat.
“Kalau kita salah memotong cabang, akibatnya bisa fatal dan pengerjaannya akan lebih sulit,” ujar Bambang. “Bahkan dari beberapa bahan yang dikerjakan ada beberapa yang dijual dengan harga murah, akibat salah potong dahan. Kesalahan tersebut dilakukan saat mulai belajar, tapi sekarang sudah bisa diantisipasi,” tambahnya.
Setelah tumbuh liar dari wiring pertama, maka dilakukan purning kedua untuk dahan yang tidak dipakai. Dari proses wiring kedua, maka bonsai sudah memperlihatkan karakter dan selanjutnya perlakuan dilakukan menyesuaikan dengan pertumbuhan pohon. [wo2k]
Pasar Andalkan Komunitas
Pasar bonsai andalkan komunitasnya, sehingga ia masih laku terjual di pasar. Komunitas bonsai sendiri makin menunjukkan loyalitasnya dengan membuat wadah Perkumpulan Penggamar Bonsai Indonesia (PPBI). Kebetulan Bambang, pemilik Juanda Bonsai, ini menjabat sebagai wakil ketua PPBI Sidoarjo.
Salah satu agenda yang sedang digarap adalah merekrut sebanyak mungkin penggemar bonsai, khususnya untuk kelas pemula. Selain itu juga dilakukan pertemuan rutin sebagai ajang tukar ide dan pendidikan bagi pemula. Dengan makin banyak penggemar bonsai, otomatis pasar bursa akan mengikutinya.
Di beberapa wilayah yang dinilai memiliki sedikit penggemar bonsai, diusahakan untuk menggelar dan mengikuti pameran tanaman hias. Tujuannya untuk menunjukkan eksistensi bahwa bonsai, penggemar loyal, dan pasarnya masih ada.
“Usaha bonsai saat ini memang agak berat, sebab meski pasar ada, tapi tidak besar,” tandas Bambang.Dilihat dari kondisi saat ini, ada beberapa alternatif yang bisa dilakukan oleh pengusaha bonsai, yaitu dengan menggarap semua segmen bonsai atau melengkapi koleksinya dengan tanaman hias yang jadi tren. Misalnya anthurium jenmanii atau adenium.
Untuk menyasar semua segmen bonsai, mulai dari bakalan, setengah jadi, bonsai jadi, dan bonsai kolektor masih bisa dilakukan demi kelangsungan usaha. Namun bila menyasar segmen yang luas, diperlukan Sumber Daya Manusia (SDM) yang banyak serta jaringan yang luas.
Pasalnya, untuk bakalan bonsai jenis sentigi saat ini banyak diburu, karena menjanjikan hasil yang baik. Bahan di beberapa lokasi yang biasa digunakan oleh pemburu bakalan bonsai sudah banyak berkurang, seperti di Madura, Jember, Sulawesi, dan Sumatera. Sedangkan untuk segmen kolektor, biasanya harus mendapatkan bonsai yang sempurna, yang tidak semua orang bisa melakukannya. [wo2k]
Ada beberapa favorit jenis tanaman yang biasa digunakan oleh pebonsai sebagai syarat dasar tanaman bonsai. Diantaranya adalah jeruk kikit, asem jawa, beringin, dan sentigi. Dari beberapa jenis yang digunakan, sentigi mempunyai daya tahan lebih baik untuk proses pembentukan bonsai dibandingkan jenis lainnya. Pasalnya, asal tumbuhan keras ini ada di pesisir pantai dengan kondisi yang ekstrim.
Faktor daya tahan yang dimiliki jenis sentigi inilah, maka sentigi sering jadi pilihan penghobi, kolektor, dan pembibit. Ini dikatakan Bambang Hermanto, pemilik Juanda Bonsai di Surabaya, yang lebih menyukai tanaman sentigi untuk dikerjakan menjadi bonsai. Ia memilih sentigi sejak tahun 1987. Setelah merasa cocok dan berhasil mengembangkan bonsai dari sentigi, ia pun tak bisa ke lain hati. “Sentigi punya daya tahan yang baik dan gerakan yang bagus. Jadi, cocok dengan karakter saya,” imbuh Bambang.
Dilihat dari asal tanaman ini, memang bisa dipastikan kalau sentigi bisa hidup dalam iklim apapun, baik panas maupun dingin. Apalagi untuk kondisi daerah yang panas, terutama di kota besar seperti Surabaya dan Jakarta. Selain mudah dalam perawatan, sentigi juga mempunyai pola gerakan yang bagus, tertutama dari kelenturan batang dan karakter daun yang kecil. Potensi dasar yang sudah dimiliki sangat memudahkan para pebonsai untuk melakukan pengerjaan sesuai dengan keinginan mereka. Dengan mengambil pilihan untuk bonsai sentigi, Bambang mengaku hasil yang didapatkan tidak lagi konvensional. Salah satunya di tunjukkan dari koleksi sentigi bunjin gascado atau dalam bahasa Indonesia diterjemahkan sebagai gerakan tarian ke atas dan terjun ke bawah.
Dari koleksi tersebut terlihat bahwa karakter batang, dahan, dan ranting yang memanjang diolah, sehingga terlihat pohon sedang menari. Kemudian di salah satu dahan ada yang mengarah ke bawah dengan gerakan melingkar, sehingga disebut terjun.
Koleksi lainnya yang diperkenalkan adalah bunjin slanting yang berarti tarian yang condong. Nama tersebut cocok, sebab dari karakter tarian yang khas diperkuat dengan munculnya dahan besar yang condong ke luar dari pot dan meliuk ke atas kembali lagi ke pusat. Dari beberapa koleksi yang dimiliki, terlihat bahwa pria yang baru mendapatkan putra keduanya awal Agustus ini menyukai gerakan tarian dalam pengolahan bonsainya. Selain itu juga didukung oleh jenis sentigi yang memperkuat karakter bonsai miliknya.
Menurut Bambang, aliran di dunia bonsai sendiri terdiri dari beberapa karakter, tapi biasanya dipisahkan sebagai konvensional dan non konvensional. Untuk aliran konvensional biasanya menggunakan pohon beringin dengan bentuk mirip payung.
Sedangkan untuk non konvensional akan mengambil beberapa teknik gerakan baru seperti tarian maupun patahan. “Semua teknik sebenarnya sama saja, asalkan hasil akhirnya proporsional dan bisa menimbulkan perasaan teduh bagi yang melihat,” tandasnya.
Perawatan Mudah
Sentigi berasal dari beberapa daerah kepulauan yang tersebar di hampir seluruh Indonesia dan beberapa kepulauan tropis di dunia, seperti Sulawesi Selatan dan negara Afrika. Dengan habitat awal yang berada di wilayah pesisir, menjadikannya sebagai tanaman yang bisa tumbuh dimana saja, meski dengan perawatan dan perlakuan biasa.
Wajar apabila perawatan yang dilakukan tidak terlalu sulit, asalkan terpenuhi tiga unsur penting, yaitu air, angin, dan panas yang kuat. Ketiga unsur tersebut mutlak dipenuhi untuk mendapatkan pertumbuhan yang maksimal. Bahkan, masih kata Bambang, sentigi bisa bertahan dengan siraman air yang mengandung unsur garam lebih.
Itu bisa kita lihat di lokasi nurseri miliknya di kota Surabaya, dimana air tanahnya sedikit asin. Selain itu udara yang ada, banyak mengandung polusi dari banyaknya kendaraan yang melintas di dekat nurserinya. Namun itu menjadikan satu keuntungan tersendiri. “Sinar matahari dan hembusan angin yang kuat dibutuhkan oleh sentigi,” kata Bambang singkat.
Untuk media tanam yang digunakan cukup sederhana, yaitu dengan komposisi dominasi pasir Malang dan pupuk kandang. Pemilihan pasir memang sengaja diambil, karena dilihat dari habitat asli tanaman ini yang berada di pesisir pantai, sehingga kandungan pasirnya cukup besar.
Secara rutin media tanam harus disiram dan dijaga agar tetap basah. Ini dilakukan untuk menghindari tanaman kekurangan air. Yang perlu diingat adalah sinar matahari mutlak diperlukan, sehingga disarankan untuk meletakkan tanaman ini di luar ruangan.
Penyakit jadi satu hal yang ditakutkan oleh penghobi tanaman hias, termasuk bonsai sentigi. Hama utama yang sering menyerang adalah kutu merah dan ulat yang bisa menghabiskan daun serta menyerang batang. Pada tingkat berat, bonsai yang Anda miliki bisa saja mati.
Langkah awal yang dilakukan bila bonsai Anda terkena hama antara lain memisahkan bonsai dengan koleksi lainnya. Ini dilakukan untuk menghindari penularan. Bila hanya satu atau dua tanaman yang terserang sebaiknya dilakukan pembersihan tanpa bahan kimia. Caranya, tentu Anda harus melihat satu persatu bagian bonsai dan membuang kutu dan ulat.
Namun bila serangan hama sudah parah dan menyebar pada koleksi bonsai lainnya, cara terakhir tentu dengan menggunkan pestisida. Jangan lupa untuk menggunakannya sesuai dosis, sebab bila berlebih bisa menyebabkan hama tersebut kebal dan lebih sulit untuk dibasmi.
Biarkan Tumbuh Liar untuk Hasil Maksimal
Untuk pembentukan bonsai sentigi, Bambang menggunakan cara meliarkan dulu tanamannya, supaya mempermudah proses pembentukan. Dari bahan mentah bonsai yang didapat, sebaiknya dibiarkan dulu tumbuh liar untuk melihat gerakannya. Langkah ini diambil menyesuaikan karakter tanaman yang mempunyai dahan memanjang.
Setelah terlihat arah dan pembentukan bahan, selanjutnya dilakukan wiring dan purning (pemangkasan) beberapa dahan yang tidak diperlukan. Setelah pengkawatan pertama, tumbuhan diliarkan kembali supaya ketepatan proses pemotongan dan pengkawatannya terlihat.
“Kalau kita salah memotong cabang, akibatnya bisa fatal dan pengerjaannya akan lebih sulit,” ujar Bambang. “Bahkan dari beberapa bahan yang dikerjakan ada beberapa yang dijual dengan harga murah, akibat salah potong dahan. Kesalahan tersebut dilakukan saat mulai belajar, tapi sekarang sudah bisa diantisipasi,” tambahnya.
Setelah tumbuh liar dari wiring pertama, maka dilakukan purning kedua untuk dahan yang tidak dipakai. Dari proses wiring kedua, maka bonsai sudah memperlihatkan karakter dan selanjutnya perlakuan dilakukan menyesuaikan dengan pertumbuhan pohon. [wo2k]
Pasar Andalkan Komunitas
Pasar bonsai andalkan komunitasnya, sehingga ia masih laku terjual di pasar. Komunitas bonsai sendiri makin menunjukkan loyalitasnya dengan membuat wadah Perkumpulan Penggamar Bonsai Indonesia (PPBI). Kebetulan Bambang, pemilik Juanda Bonsai, ini menjabat sebagai wakil ketua PPBI Sidoarjo.
Salah satu agenda yang sedang digarap adalah merekrut sebanyak mungkin penggemar bonsai, khususnya untuk kelas pemula. Selain itu juga dilakukan pertemuan rutin sebagai ajang tukar ide dan pendidikan bagi pemula. Dengan makin banyak penggemar bonsai, otomatis pasar bursa akan mengikutinya.
Di beberapa wilayah yang dinilai memiliki sedikit penggemar bonsai, diusahakan untuk menggelar dan mengikuti pameran tanaman hias. Tujuannya untuk menunjukkan eksistensi bahwa bonsai, penggemar loyal, dan pasarnya masih ada.
“Usaha bonsai saat ini memang agak berat, sebab meski pasar ada, tapi tidak besar,” tandas Bambang.Dilihat dari kondisi saat ini, ada beberapa alternatif yang bisa dilakukan oleh pengusaha bonsai, yaitu dengan menggarap semua segmen bonsai atau melengkapi koleksinya dengan tanaman hias yang jadi tren. Misalnya anthurium jenmanii atau adenium.
Untuk menyasar semua segmen bonsai, mulai dari bakalan, setengah jadi, bonsai jadi, dan bonsai kolektor masih bisa dilakukan demi kelangsungan usaha. Namun bila menyasar segmen yang luas, diperlukan Sumber Daya Manusia (SDM) yang banyak serta jaringan yang luas.
Pasalnya, untuk bakalan bonsai jenis sentigi saat ini banyak diburu, karena menjanjikan hasil yang baik. Bahan di beberapa lokasi yang biasa digunakan oleh pemburu bakalan bonsai sudah banyak berkurang, seperti di Madura, Jember, Sulawesi, dan Sumatera. Sedangkan untuk segmen kolektor, biasanya harus mendapatkan bonsai yang sempurna, yang tidak semua orang bisa melakukannya. [wo2k]
Wednesday, January 16, 2008
Anting "berburu" Putri
Berburu merupakan suatu hal yang sangat mengasyikan terutama bagi yang memiliki jiwa berpetualang. Sejenak kita akan melihat alam secara nyata yang dapat mengganti semua isi kepala dengan sebuah penyegaran baru, dibalik rutinitas pekerjaan kantor. Berburu bahan bonsai di tanjungpinang khususnya anting putri/santalia, memiliki perbedaan dengan berburu tanaman lain. Yang menjadi permasalahan, bukan tertantang melewati belantara ataupun apa saja yang menantang didalam hutan, tetapi hal yang paling memuaskan ketika dapat menaklukan siempunya pohon . Dalam arti sipemilik rela pohonnya digali dengan imbalan beberapa lembar rupiah.Karena di Tanjungpinang pohon ini hidup sebagai tanaman pagar di rumah rumah penduduk, tetapi tidak sebanyak seperti tahun 80-an. karena peminat Bonsai jenis ini pemintanya semakin banyak. Bisikan mulut ke mulut lebih cepat ketimbang sarana komunikasi apapun ketika ada bahan Santalia yang baru. Tidak jarang ada yang diam diam coba untuk menjadi penawar pertama, ha, ha...... Kuncinya cuma satu. kalau tidak ingin kecolongan dengan peminat bondsai yang lain. Apabila penawaran sudah mentok siEmpunya tidak merelakan,,...Bilang Saja," Pohon ini Harganya mahal,,,,,,,,kalau bisa jangan dijual dulu,......sebab pohon ini pohon mahal. Kontan Sipemilik akan menaikan harga pada saat ada penawaran berikutnya,,,..........
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